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南京,一座我理解不了的城市(中)

  • 2026-02-13 20:48:29
南京,一座我理解不了的城市(中)
当晚把车开到民宿楼下，就再也没动过，一直停到去牛首山才开走。不到60个小时收了48元停车费，收费标准是24小时18元，还算合理，比钟山景区的15分钟6元便宜多了。
接下来几天，出行基本全靠地铁，偶尔也打车。不用考虑停车，方便了不少。
说到坐地铁，我真佩服南京人，那几天的体验对我来说无比糟糕。出门一身汗或者一身雨，浑身湿透钻进地铁，坐一路，衣服差不多就凉干了，不是晾干，是凉，空调温度开的很低。出了站，没走两步，又湿透了。然后再钻进地铁，再凉干，……就这么循环，直到晚上住下洗个热水澡，身体才觉得是自己的。
我琢磨，南京人天天这样？对身体真是极大的考验。或许南方城市都这样吧，又潮又闷，雨说下就下，没副铁打的身子骨还真扛不住。
正是这种湿了干、干了湿、永远黏黏糊糊的感觉，让我动了早点离开南京的念头。但来都来了，总得先打个卡。
远远拍摄的明故宫遗址展厅，里面播放的是故宫还原后的数字场景
于是第二天，我们跟特种兵似的，先去了趟明故宫遗址（其实是个大公园），碰巧路过南京航空航天大学校门，又到南京博物院门口转了转——想碰碰运气看看是否有现场票，结果还是没进去。
中午找了家馆子，吃了顿说得过去的正经大餐，为下午积蓄点能量。
饭后，我们向南京市政府的方向走，看地图那儿的景点扎堆。途中，偶然发现了古生物博物馆。它本不在计划内，但既然撞见了，便进去看了看。规模着实不小，毕竟是世界上最大的古生物专业博物馆之一，恐龙骨架立在厅里，很有看头，算是个意外的收获。
随处可见的法国梧桐，据说秋天的梧桐大道好看。
从博物馆出来，顺着路就走到了古鸡鸣寺。香火旺得很，路线是单行的，从南进北出。我们跟着人流，穿过大大小小十几个殿宇，一直走到最后的大雄宝殿。空气里满是香火气，人声和诵经声混在一起，有种热闹的庄严。
街道拐角处“古鸡鸣寺”牌坊
当天的最后一站是玄武湖。景区免费，但是旁边的明城墙一人30元。
玄武湖平静的湖面
城墙就不去了，孩子们对船比较感兴趣。我们租了条电动船，在开阔的湖面上慢慢开了一个钟头。湖风阵阵吹来，终于有了点凉意，让人感到一丝久违的舒坦。玄武湖是古秦淮河遗留下来的水域，从六朝时的皇家园林湖泊，变成了如今南京城中心的“心脏”，这份变迁本身，就值得来看一看。
大宝认真的当起了舵手
我们住的地方有家“老乡鸡”。我第一眼看成了“老幺鸡”，心里还嘀咕：老幺是啥意思？老板家里排行最小？还是爱打麻将？总觉得怪怪的。直到大宝念出来“老乡鸡”，我才悄悄又瞅了眼招牌，自偷偷的把名字改过来。
自从第一顿在那儿吃了快餐，后面几天，孩子们就认准了这地儿，晚上回到民宿第一时间先去吃老乡鸡。
第二天就这么过去了，平平淡淡，像在完成任务打卡。然而， 我对南京仍然难以理解，更无法融入。
出来玩总是能接到老友电话，在这湖面上和老徐聊了半天
当玄武湖的船靠了岸，凉意便散了。我走在玄武湖畔，看城墙的影子和远处写字楼的玻璃幕墙同时倒映在水里，混杂成一团模糊的光晕。我忽然觉得，这一整天像在翻阅一本编排奇特的书，每一页的内容都郑重其事，可它们被“串”在一起，却让我读不出一个连贯的“故事”。
南京给我的，不是碎片，而是许多本完整的书，被硬生生合订成了一册。它太慷慨了，一股脑地把历史同时推到你的面前。它们各自成册，却彼此沉默。我触摸到的，始终是那一层坚硬而透明的隔膜——我能看见一切，却感受不到那个将所有一切贯穿起来的、温热的灵魂。
它仿佛在说：我的深厚就在这里，但你带不走，也未必能懂。这种“看不懂”，不是遗憾，倒像一种被郑重拒绝后的茫然。
第三天，我们去了钟山景区。去之前，心里是存着某种郑重期待的——那里安放着这座城市最显赫的记忆，中山陵的台阶，明孝陵的神像，总该有些我能看懂的东西吧。
雨忽大忽小，心情也不断起伏
可天不从人愿，下起了雨。雨时大时小，有时候细密绵长，把整个世界都罩进了一层灰蒙蒙的纱里，有时候有大雨磅礴，看不清眼前的建筑。
人比晴天时少些，可也绝称不上冷清。考虑到时间关系，我们没有买通票，也没有买观光车票，既然来了，便走走看，尽管这决定在后来让我吃尽了苦头。
没能去成总统府和中山陵，便顺着湿漉漉的梧桐道，先走到了美龄宫。那是一座精致的小楼，静静立在蓊郁的林木间。走在光洁的地板上，看着那些复原的陈设，耳边是其他游客压低的、关于那段传奇婚姻的零星议论。让我惊讶的不仅仅是三楼的风景，也有那个时代的现代痕迹。
我望向近处的雨和远处的树，我在想，当时他们俩，是怎么样的生活？
美龄宫门前的车，是一辆当年宋美龄座驾的仿制车。
本文来自网友投稿或网络内容，如有侵犯您的权益请联系我们删除，联系邮箱：wyl860211@qq.com 。

苏州本地临时工2026.01.31周六(兼职)日结招聘

南京市区所属单位2026年公开招聘教师公告

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  1. CONNECT:[ UseTime:0.000958s ] mysql:host=127.0.0.1;port=3306;dbname=b460;charset=utf8mb4
  2. SHOW FULL COLUMNS FROM `fenlei` [ RunTime:0.001363s ]
  3. SELECT * FROM `fenlei` WHERE `fid` = 0 [ RunTime:0.001803s ]
  4. SELECT * FROM `fenlei` WHERE `fid` = 63 [ RunTime:0.000638s ]
  5. SHOW FULL COLUMNS FROM `set` [ RunTime:0.001346s ]
  6. SELECT * FROM `set` [ RunTime:0.000554s ]
  7. SHOW FULL COLUMNS FROM `article` [ RunTime:0.001548s ]
  8. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` = 470717 LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.003005s ]
  9. UPDATE `article` SET `lasttime` = 1771005945 WHERE `id` = 470717 [ RunTime:0.014131s ]
  10. SELECT * FROM `fenlei` WHERE `id` = 65 LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.000688s ]
  11. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 470717 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.001214s ]
  12. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` > 470717 ORDER BY `id` ASC LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.001053s ]
  13. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 470717 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 10 [ RunTime:0.001728s ]
  14. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 470717 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 10,10 [ RunTime:0.002676s ]
  15. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 470717 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 20,10 [ RunTime:0.010595s ]
0.130824s