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南京的年味:什锦菜

  • 2026-03-27 06:02:08
南京的年味:什锦菜
除夕晚上这顿饭，叫“年夜饭”。大家都在说“年味儿”，落到实处，还是个吃。说到吃，最隆重的一定是“年夜饭”。
年夜饭各地都有自己的特色，说到南京，那必须是“什锦菜”。也叫“十锦菜”，或是“十样菜”。
年夜饭必备“什锦菜”是南京的传统年俗。民国时期的潘宗鼎在《金陵岁时记》一书中有“十锦菜”条：
      除夕人家，以酱姜瓜、胡萝卜、金针菜、木耳、冬笋、白芹、酱油干、百页、面筋十色，切成细丝，谓之十景。又有所谓安乐菜者，干马齿苋也；如意菜者，黄豆芽也。盖取义吉祥尔。
卢前先生也于1950年2月13日写过一篇《十样菜》，文章不长，读来颇有趣，与大家分享。
      四川有种“素烩”，和粤菜里“罗汉斋”一样，是用许多蔬菜炒成的。在南京春节前也有这么一种十样菜：用贴炉面筋、胡萝卜丝、生姜丝、酱瓜、豆腐干、白芹、黄豆芽（叫做如意菜）、木耳、豆腐做成的白页（又叫做千章的）、黄花菜（俗称金针）。这十样也许会有点出入，因为各家有各家的习惯，这十样菜在辞年祀祖时一定要供出来的。春节时大家吃油腻多，用这素菜来调节胃口说起来很合卫生;然而主要的用意在“吉祥”。其中属于豆腐类的有三种，腐字谐富字的音；黄豆芽又像如意的形，红白黄黑配合起来颜色也好看，我把这菜当作民间艺术之一。在春节中民间艺术表现的方式很多，例如“剪纸”，剪一些什么“福寿连圆”“梅蝶”“笔锭如意”“福寿双全”之类的，贴在器皿上、窗棂上，男女老幼都可欣赏。究竟比起食品来就不如了。而糕饼元宵那些甜食，作为高贵的点心则可，不能佐餐，不能像十样菜这样丰富、普及。尽管也有人用十样菜来包春卷，来做包子馅，平常还只看它是菜而已。有位朋友在南京作寓公多年，他说：“别人爱南京的板鸭，我却爱鸭油泡炒米，佐以十样菜，这是人间至味。”他这种说法，还不免老饕本色，其实只要一碗白米饭，一碟十样菜，已足够美满的了。
所谓素什锦，就是素菜精细大杂烩。之所以说是“精细”，因为做素什锦，首先要将各样素菜细切成丝，然后分别用油炒熟，最后放在一起，用芝麻油拌匀。
这样的一个制作，估计也就是为了“年夜饭”，才会有人家愿意去忙。
如今，在家自己做素什锦的已经很少了。其实，即使是以前，各大饭店的卤菜外卖窗口，在年前，排队人买的最多的就是“素什锦”了。当然，现在也是。
我都是在家自己做素什锦，除夕夜，还是吃自己做的可口。
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  1. CONNECT:[ UseTime:0.000612s ] mysql:host=127.0.0.1;port=3306;dbname=b460;charset=utf8mb4
  2. SHOW FULL COLUMNS FROM `fenlei` [ RunTime:0.000926s ]
  3. SELECT * FROM `fenlei` WHERE `fid` = 0 [ RunTime:0.000316s ]
  4. SELECT * FROM `fenlei` WHERE `fid` = 63 [ RunTime:0.000266s ]
  5. SHOW FULL COLUMNS FROM `set` [ RunTime:0.000569s ]
  6. SELECT * FROM `set` [ RunTime:0.000273s ]
  7. SHOW FULL COLUMNS FROM `article` [ RunTime:0.000665s ]
  8. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` = 486681 LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.000418s ]
  9. UPDATE `article` SET `lasttime` = 1775331576 WHERE `id` = 486681 [ RunTime:0.001621s ]
  10. SELECT * FROM `fenlei` WHERE `id` = 65 LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.000291s ]
  11. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 486681 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.000624s ]
  12. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` > 486681 ORDER BY `id` ASC LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.001846s ]
  13. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 486681 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 10 [ RunTime:0.000877s ]
  14. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 486681 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 10,10 [ RunTime:0.001707s ]
  15. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 486681 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 20,10 [ RunTime:0.001289s ]
0.078358s