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南京美食街巷志—丹凤街

  • 2026-04-21 15:14:48
南京美食街巷志—丹凤街
张恨水写过丹凤街，写的是这条街的人情与市井。一百年过去，街变了，但人还是要吃。丹凤街不宽，从珠江路往北京东路走，也就一公里出头。可这短短的一公里，却有许多的吃喝。文中很多不单单是丹凤街的吃食，但也距离很近，干脆就合并到一起。

韵味居

湘菜馆，离珠江路地铁站不远。做的菜却是那种热辣直接的湘菜。湘菜的辣和川菜的辣不同。川菜是麻辣，花椒和辣椒的配合；湘菜是干辣、鲜辣，辣椒本身的风味更加突出。糯米笋炒腊肉，笋子的鲜被腊肉的油包裹，烟笋味搭配着笋的本味，好吃；第一次吃醋炒蛋就在这里，当时心里冒过奇怪又开胃的感觉，搭配的很合适；土匪猪肝炒的略老了一点，味道压的还可以。

无穹花韩国料理

老店。似乎开了二十几年了。不算是正宗的韩料，但却是适口的味道，经过很多在地化的改良。烤肉、石锅拌饭、大酱汤，样样都是小时候的韩料样子——朴素、扎实，不搞花头。味道和几年前吃整体没有太多变化，不会失望，但也没有太多惊喜。很多时候，老店吃的不是味道，也有记忆。

醇舌烤串

南京人对鸭子的执念，已经到了分子级别。别人吃鸭子吃腿吃胸，最多也就啃个鸭头，来南京后才发现鸭舌也能单独做个菜。南京烤鸭舌蛮多店，老胡那边经常预定不到，就尝试这家。鸭舌烤得确实不错，肥嫩入味，咸香中带着一点焦糖的甜，但更多是啃的乐趣，吃的是调味。除了鸭舌，其他的烤串也在及格线上，味道尚可。

仲氏米线

老店，过桥米线。过桥米线是：砂锅端上来，汤滚烫，菜和米线另放，自己一样一样往锅里烫。吃过番茄和进士，两种区别在于汤底，番茄汤底酸甜浓郁，进士汤底是经典骨汤，看个人口味。米线爽滑，虽然一夹就断但并非软烂；汤底一般，就基础味道，无功无过。可以吃一吃过桥的仪式。

麒麟风·云贵烧烤

最开始是在九宜城楼下吃，后来发现这边也有店，有些时候顺路也会在这边吃。店名反复更迭过很多次，最后还是改回了麒麟风。近期才发现九宜城那家店已经倒闭了，只能来这边吃了。算是在南京吃的最多的烧烤了，最开始吃到烤吐司惊为天人，吐司品质确实影响味道。肉串有大有小，味道都还不错。感觉云贵烧烤吃的除了食材，还有调料的味道。现在也做火锅，但相比于烧烤就差点意思了。

野牛披萨

新开的街头披萨，门面不起眼，在一个出入口附近。皮是老板现场手搓，馅料也自己备，不像很多店用预制半成品。面饼烤出来外脆内软，有气孔，有麦香，馅料中芝士拉丝，该有的都有。性价比很高，味道还不错，但不算惊艳。

朱记小眼镜蒸饭

老店，似乎已经关店。比较古早的网红。据说从螺丝拐弯的摊摊开到自己做了一个门面。没吃过之前总是对这些店有一种美味滤镜，真吃到了感觉也就是正常的味道，像饭团，适合做早餐。和其他家的蒸饭感觉区别不大，味道还是可以的。

章云板鸭

丹凤街分店。章云板鸭是南京的老字号了。很多人都在推章云的板鸭，但除了板鸭，烤鸭也还不错。烤鸭稍微有点肥，但肥而不腻，酱板鸭则是咸甜口的，带点酱香，各有千秋。

泽厨记

抓饭店。在南京算是品质还不错的抓饭了。最惊艳的当属搬家之前的小锅抓饭，但这两年换到一中附近后感觉品质差了不少。说回泽厨记，店面开了也有几年了，从最起初的藏在深巷人未知到现在被探店后的火爆，靠的还是抓饭的品质。大米粒粒分明，裹着羊油的光泽，胡萝卜的甜味被油脂逼出来，跟羊肉的膻香搅在一起，一勺一勺停不下来。吃的油腻了来口小菜，瞬间解腻，又吃大半盘。

蜀味香

大石桥街上新进川菜网红店。做的是家常川菜，谈不上精致但是下饭。大部分菜的基底都接近：干辣椒炝锅的香辣和焦香先到，花椒的麻跟在后面，最后才是青红辣椒的鲜辣——层次分明。没什么招牌菜，想吃什么就点，川菜的调味不会差。缺点是性价比不算太高。

一味老卤面

大石桥街上的面馆。南京老卤面和上海浇头面的做派不同，南京人讲究"赤酱浓油"，卤汁要厚，浇头要足。一味老卤面把两者揉在了一起。热衷于于吃拌面，更吃味道。面条拌起，将料拌匀，咸、甜、香融合在一起，相得益彰。浇头就看个人喜好。价格不低，但味道不错，可以接受。

小李汤包

汤包是南京的市井体面。小李汤包在殷高巷有总店，大石桥街上这家似为分店，东大学生吃的多些。汤包皮薄，提起来看得到汁水在皮子里晃，汤是鸡汁打底的，鲜而不腻，馅料饱满紧实。如果觉得甜的话，可以配点醋解一解。

小马牛肉面

小马牛肉面有好多家，这家算是味道还不错的。面条筋道，汤头浓鲜，浇头跟牛有关的都值得试。牛肉是重点——有嚼劲，不是那种入口即化的烂牛肉，是咬着费点劲、越嚼越香的那种。有人说味道偏重，吃完要喝水。但牛肉面汤头浓郁本就是对的，寡淡的牛肉汤那叫水煮面。适合想吃面条的时候用来填肚子。
有些店开了三十年，有些开了八年，有些才几个月。但不管多久，能在这条街上活下来的，都有两把刷子。不必每家都打卡。挑自己喜欢的口味，走进去，坐下来，吃。吃这个东西，喜欢了就是最好的。
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  1. CONNECT:[ UseTime:0.000772s ] mysql:host=127.0.0.1;port=3306;dbname=b460;charset=utf8mb4
  2. SHOW FULL COLUMNS FROM `fenlei` [ RunTime:0.001519s ]
  3. SELECT * FROM `fenlei` WHERE `fid` = 0 [ RunTime:0.002710s ]
  4. SELECT * FROM `fenlei` WHERE `fid` = 63 [ RunTime:0.001026s ]
  5. SHOW FULL COLUMNS FROM `set` [ RunTime:0.001242s ]
  6. SELECT * FROM `set` [ RunTime:0.000628s ]
  7. SHOW FULL COLUMNS FROM `article` [ RunTime:0.001681s ]
  8. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` = 533015 LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.005604s ]
  9. UPDATE `article` SET `lasttime` = 1776905878 WHERE `id` = 533015 [ RunTime:0.004245s ]
  10. SELECT * FROM `fenlei` WHERE `id` = 65 LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.001671s ]
  11. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 533015 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.000658s ]
  12. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` > 533015 ORDER BY `id` ASC LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.000569s ]
  13. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 533015 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 10 [ RunTime:0.004688s ]
  14. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 533015 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 10,10 [ RunTime:0.008770s ]
  15. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 533015 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 20,10 [ RunTime:0.004257s ]
0.207771s