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寒冬慢些走,等我再赴苏州,吃一口藏书羊肉

  • 2026-02-06 12:25:56
寒冬慢些走,等我再赴苏州,吃一口藏书羊肉
这回去苏州，行程仓促，终究没能正经吃上一顿惦念已久的藏书羊肉，只在聚会的茶馆喝了一碗羊汤，聊以慰藉蠢蠢欲动的馋虫。虽只是一碗寻常羊汤，却更勾得我念起藏书羊肉的温润本味，下次，定要专程为它赴一场江南之约。
江南的暖意从不浓烈，裹着一身细碎的烟火气，藏书羊肉便藏在这份烟火里——身边的北方朋友总念叨，南方羊肉寡淡无味；西北的朋友更显爽朗，直言，唯有西北羊肉才够醇厚，每次聊起食羊，总爱打趣我“南方羊少了几分灵魂”。
其实也怪不得他们，南北食羊的性子，本就截然不同：北方人食羊，是大块朵颐的酣畅，是烟火气里的豪迈；江南人食羊，偏爱温润细腻，将荤腥炖得软糯绵长，褪去锋芒，藏书羊肉便是这般寻常又地道的滋味，藏着江南人独有的食味讲究。
藏书羊肉的“藏”，读cáng，自带几分古意。老苏州闲谈时说，从前穹隆山的樵夫们炖羊肉，怕浓郁香气飘远引来野兽，便将陶罐藏于杉木丛中慢煨，久而久之，“藏”字不光成了地名，更成了藏书羊肉的灵魂。西汉时，吴人朱买臣家贫却嗜书如命，不治家业，常年上山砍柴换粮，挑着柴担仍不忘诵书，常将书简藏于穹隆山石缝之间，这便是“藏书”地名的由来之一，也给这份烟火滋味，添了几分淡淡的书卷气。
冬日山间寒风凛冽，他砍柴歇脚时，便煮一锅羊肉暖身，粗陶罐文火慢煨，鲜醇滋味伴着墨香，陪他熬过了清苦的苦读岁月。后来朱买臣官至会稽太守，这份苦读配羊汤的佳话，也成了这份味道的特别底色。
它产自苏州木渎，从前不过是穹隆山麓农户的副业，农闲时节炖上一锅，既能暖身驱寒，也能换些闲钱补贴家用；如今已是国家级非遗，百年流转间，暖着一方人的烟火日常，朱买臣的那段过往，更给它添了几分味道之外的意趣。江南人去羊膻，从不用重料硬压，全凭天然古法：藏书羊肉多选用山羊，传统做法偏爱穹隆山麓的本地羊，如今也会搭配些山东、苏北的短毛白山羊，皆选一两岁的嫩羊，膻味极轻，肉质细嫩紧实。炖肉需用穹隆山杉木制成“盆堂”，铁镬为底，木桶裹之，老苏州说，杉木盆堂越旧越香，有些老铺的盆堂已用数十年，木纹深处皆浸着羊香，炖出的羊肉才够醇厚入味。泡净血水后，文火慢煨两三个时辰，不添半点香料，仅放少许盐提味，汤色渐成乳白，肉质酥而不烂，撒一撮新鲜蒜叶，鲜气便瞬间弥漫开来，正是江南人偏爱的那种绵长回甘。
不同于北方食羊的豪迈，一入冬，寒风掠过江南老巷，藏书羊肉便如期登场。老话常说“冬吃羊肉赛人参”，图的便是这份温润温补的暖意。吃法也尽显实在，无甚铺张讲究：羊肉面讲究“重汤轻面”，羊汤需喝头锅，面条要细要软，吸饱鲜醇汤汁，才不负这一口烟火；冻羊糕需放凉食用，嚼之弹牙爽口，配一口清酒，不腻不燥，更添几分雅致清趣。老苏州食羊肉，还爱配一碟脆爽腌萝卜，解腻又提鲜，一口羊肉一口萝卜，暖意从舌尖蔓延至心坎。
即便摆起全羊宴，江南人也始终守着“鲜而不腻”的规矩。这份味道，古往今来皆受人偏爱，清代袁景澜在书中曾记载苏州葑门的羊肉店，想来便是藏书羊肉的前身；西施借羊汤养颜的传说，虽无实据，却也给这份烟火滋味，添了几分柔美意趣。还有一段趣闻，从前苏州大户人家入冬后，常会请藏书羊肉铺的师傅上门炖羊，浓郁羊香漫过整条街巷，邻里们便借着“串门”的由头，蹭一口热羊汤，暖意相伴，成了寒冬里最治愈的小欢喜。
藏书羊肉这般滋味，有人爱之深切，也有人难以习惯。争议多集中在“淡”字上：重口者嫌它寡淡无味，爱本味者却偏爱这份纯粹清甜；再有些铺子偷工减料、简化工序，失了本真滋味，争议便更甚。老苏州常说，真正的藏书羊肉，淡得有底气，鲜得有分寸。
茶馆里那碗寻常羊汤，虽未让我尝尽藏书羊肉的全貌，却也读懂了这份淡。它本就不是人人皆爱的滋味，只是藏着江南人食羊的偏爱，守着食材本真而已。
等下次再赴苏州，我定要寻一间老铺，细细品味一顿地道的藏书羊肉。苏州藏着不少地道的藏书羊肉老字号，最值得一去的便是中华老字号老庆泰——作为非遗传承载体，自1898年开设第一家羊作店，五代人始终坚守传统工艺：甄选一两岁山羊，用穹隆山杉木盆堂慢炖，严格遵循焯水、去浮沫、文火煨煮的古法，不添多余调料，更有烤全羊、羊肉水饺等衍生小吃，甚至有获评中国名宴的全羊宴，适配各类口味，总能寻到合心意的那一口。
除此之外，藏书本地还有些传承数十年的老铺，无华丽招牌，无刻意宣传，老板多是手脚麻利的老人，守着铁锅硬柴，文火慢炖七八个小时，全程仅用盐调味，不添半点多余之物。主打白烧羊肉、羊杂汤、冻羊糕等经典吃法，端上桌时撒一把新鲜蒜叶，老人还会笑着叮嘱一句“趁热吃，凉了便失了本味”，语气格外亲切。
前几日与老爸通电话，他说得了些上好的崇明羊，这下周末总算有口福了，正好试着做一道红烧或白切，先解解馋。我还特意叮嘱老爸，炖肉时学着藏书羊肉的法子，多留几分食材本味，老爸笑着打趣我：“不过喝了一口羊汤，倒成了半个食羊行家”。
附：文中典故及史料参考 1. 苏州非遗藏书羊肉史料； 2. 朱买臣与藏书地名典故
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  1. CONNECT:[ UseTime:0.001147s ] mysql:host=127.0.0.1;port=3306;dbname=b460;charset=utf8mb4
  2. SHOW FULL COLUMNS FROM `fenlei` [ RunTime:0.001584s ]
  3. SELECT * FROM `fenlei` WHERE `fid` = 0 [ RunTime:0.000738s ]
  4. SELECT * FROM `fenlei` WHERE `fid` = 63 [ RunTime:0.000657s ]
  5. SHOW FULL COLUMNS FROM `set` [ RunTime:0.001345s ]
  6. SELECT * FROM `set` [ RunTime:0.000526s ]
  7. SHOW FULL COLUMNS FROM `article` [ RunTime:0.001532s ]
  8. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` = 478617 LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.007147s ]
  9. UPDATE `article` SET `lasttime` = 1770363291 WHERE `id` = 478617 [ RunTime:0.001564s ]
  10. SELECT * FROM `fenlei` WHERE `id` = 64 LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.000719s ]
  11. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 478617 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.002848s ]
  12. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` > 478617 ORDER BY `id` ASC LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.012209s ]
  13. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 478617 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 10 [ RunTime:0.017882s ]
  14. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 478617 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 10,10 [ RunTime:0.022302s ]
  15. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 478617 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 20,10 [ RunTime:0.024859s ]
0.267893s