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廷楷文章07 | 南京游记

  • 2026-07-13 09:29:37
廷楷文章07 | 南京游记

  南京游记

文/廷楷

说起来，距离我去南京的日子也已经过去一个月了。但是老实说，我一直都没办法用文字去描绘我在南京的感受。到底什么是南京？对于一个只游览了四天的游客来说，显然这太难了。我想不出来，更写不出来。于是，就连动笔，都是令人遗憾的。
我初到南京的时候，第一个感受就是：明明南京地处苏南地区，但是相对于苏州上海，南京人讲话明显更像隔壁的芜马滁：无论是接送我们到酒店的司机，还是酒店前台的小姐姐，说起家乡话时总是带笔。这全然没有半点古人讲的“雅正”气息，反而更像是大运河上漕帮的江湖草莽之气。在听感上，别说是同为古都的北京了，就连省内的苏州都比不上。粗声粗气的。
可能也是旅途颠簸吧，早上四点钟从美兰机场坐飞机到芜湖宣州机场，最后再从芜湖坐动车直达南京南站。当多巴胺自脑海里退潮，旅途所带来的疲惫连同倒春寒交织体内。最后不出意外的感冒了。步行一公里到达药店买药的时候，我偶然间遇到了一个老伯伯。他说：“小伙子啊，你们从海南来的。真以为南京人还是南京人？不，南京人早都跑光光了。现在居住在南京的，全是‘江北人’。哪还有什么南京人？”是吗？缔造了“六朝古都”的南京人早已没有了一点骨血留存于世？这怎么可能？就这样，我带着这个疑问，安心地睡下了，准备第二天的钟山之旅。
第二天睡醒，就骑着共享单车从苜蓿园大街一路到钟山，道路两侧延展着梧桐。自钟山风景区三号入口直插神道，途中只剩下小鹿乱蹦，鸟儿乱叫。神道两侧只有石仲翁和古柏在紧张着看着稀稀拉拉的人群。渐渐地，周边的景色从古柏到了红墙，“治隆唐宋”的金字明晃晃的比太阳还耀眼。一个人究竟得历经什么样的苦难才能够“治隆唐宋”呢？谁能体会呢？到头来，朱元璋也只剩下一个孤零零的棺木和早已成为白骨的妻儿一起，困在高高的城墙上。
出了明孝陵，坐着观光车抵达中山陵。湛蓝的天盖住白色的建筑，我沿着三百多级的台阶攀登到墓室，只见到一尊孙中山先生的大理石像。通身洁白，一个二郎腿悠闲地看着因攀登墓室而筋疲力尽的人们。这大概也是中山先生为数不多的休闲的时刻吧。“公无渡河，公竟渡河！堕河而死，当奈公何！”朱元璋还是要比中山先生幸运得多，虽然都是“驱逐鞑虏，恢复中原”；但是中山先生毕生都在“恢复中原”理想里打转，直到生命的最后一刻；而朱元璋则真的诛杀了元朝。从墓室出来，看着远处的南京城，遗憾滴入心间。
从钟山回酒店，心里面感觉堵得慌：南京，究竟是一座什么样的城市？宛如天堑的长江分开神州南北，也赋予南京一丝落寞：多少仁人志士意图兴复神州，可是只剩下一座座坟茔。都说虎踞龙盘，是天子所在。但是怎么就变成了英雄的葬身之所？哪怕是幸运如朱元璋，到最后也孤单的死在了南京。似乎，这里的英雄，总是充满遗憾的、不甘心的迎来他们人生的结局。
不过说来也奇怪，我连抢了半个月的侵华日军南京大屠杀纪念馆的门票，结果愣是抢不到。哪怕是比较冷门的利济巷侵华日军慰安妇纪念馆，也很难抢得上票。于是只好打开手机，预约了瞻园的门票。
第三天在瞻园，我却看到了那些王侯将相撰写的史书中刻意抹杀的名字。本来，瞻园是明朝中山王徐达的宅邸，后有清一代是江宁布政使的官邸。但在太平天国时期，这里却成为了东王杨秀清的宅邸。于是，一个本应当作为王侯将相的私宅而逐渐凋零的园林，因为太平天国而得以幸存。在这里，我看到内忧外患上多少平民百姓抛弃自己的小家，去反抗腐朽无能的清政府；在这里，我看到以曾国藩为首的地主老爷们是如何在攻陷南京后对参与太平天国的人进行反攻倒算。一桩桩一件件，都是南京人的血和泪。我似乎理解了第一天晚上那个老伯伯说的话了，南京，从来就不是南京人的南京。
在这里，六朝旧事随流水，多少平民百姓变成一抔黄土在月下哭泣；在这里，一场又一场的大屠杀早已令这座城市的土壤上每一寸都是鲜血；在这里，是中华民族对抗倭寇的战场，也是反抗黑暗统治的一面旗帜。这就是南京，一个充满着遗憾、不甘、屈辱的城市。自平民到朱元璋、杨秀清、孙中山等英雄人物，用他们的骨与血，在此铸就一座不朽的丰碑。就在这里，不同于苏杭的软糯，南京依旧保留着吴越大地的一抹英雄气概。这股气概，是这片土地生来就有的，无论来了多少的移民，只要钟山还在，长江还在；秦淮河的脂粉气和鸡鸣寺的诵经声也休想将南京的英雄气灭杀。
南京，是一个充满着遗憾、不甘的城市。纵使“吴宫花草埋幽径，晋代衣冠成古丘。”但南京的土地还在，南京的魂魄还在。他们，是不会忘记，那些为了自由，为了神州复兴的烈士。王侯将相，终随流水消逝；但是英雄气概，千古流传，至今依旧。

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  1. CONNECT:[ UseTime:0.001019s ] mysql:host=127.0.0.1;port=3306;dbname=b460;charset=utf8mb4
  2. SHOW FULL COLUMNS FROM `fenlei` [ RunTime:0.001424s ]
  3. SELECT * FROM `fenlei` WHERE `fid` = 0 [ RunTime:0.003879s ]
  4. SELECT * FROM `fenlei` WHERE `fid` = 63 [ RunTime:0.001830s ]
  5. SHOW FULL COLUMNS FROM `set` [ RunTime:0.001383s ]
  6. SELECT * FROM `set` [ RunTime:0.001181s ]
  7. SHOW FULL COLUMNS FROM `article` [ RunTime:0.001594s ]
  8. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` = 576510 LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.001397s ]
  9. UPDATE `article` SET `lasttime` = 1784060190 WHERE `id` = 576510 [ RunTime:0.009456s ]
  10. SELECT * FROM `fenlei` WHERE `id` = 65 LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.000635s ]
  11. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 576510 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.005265s ]
  12. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` > 576510 ORDER BY `id` ASC LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.006931s ]
  13. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 576510 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 10 [ RunTime:0.045349s ]
  14. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 576510 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 10,10 [ RunTime:0.030280s ]
  15. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 576510 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 20,10 [ RunTime:0.055948s ]
0.354359s