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东游记-南京walk1

2026-06-23 13:56:50

东游记-南京walk1

天蒙蒙亮的时候，我们开始了南京城一日游。

晨光漫过玄武湖面，把紫金山的轮廓晕成淡墨。沿着湖岸漫步，看水鸟掠过水面，听岸边的老人拉着二胡。这里曾是皇家园林，如今成了市民们最惬意的休憩之所。湖光山色间，时间仿佛也慢了下来。

玄武湖的马路对面是鸡鸣古寺。朱红的山门在蓝天下格外醒目，香火缭绕中，善男信女们虔诚祈福。寺内的药师佛塔巍峨耸立，凭栏远眺，整个南京城尽收眼底，车水马龙与古刹钟声在此刻奇妙地交融。

离开鸡鸣寺，我们骑着共享单车，向大总统府出发，没有打算进去参观，外面打卡就离开了。

继续向前，下一站是清凉山公园，骑车就有点远了，选了一路公交车前往。

穿过 “六朝胜迹” 的拱门，古银杏的叶子在风里沙沙作响，像在低声诉说着千年的故事。这里是南唐后主李煜的避暑行宫旧址，如今只剩断碑残碣，却仍能让人想象出当年 “独自莫凭栏” 的苍凉。

进门没多远，沿左侧山路行走，是清凉古寺，这里是“法眼宗”祖庭，秋日正好，有一队小学生在这里课外实践。

整个清凉山不大，树木郁郁葱葱，散步正好。顺着山路下山到半山腰，是“石头城遗址公园” 在 “城门门道遗迹” 的展棚下，我驻足良久。那些排列整齐的柱础石，无声地诉说着六朝古都的繁华。这里曾是东吴的军事要塞，是 “钟山风雨起苍黄” 的见证者。阳光透过棚顶，在古老的砖石上投下斑驳的光影，仿佛历史的长河在此刻凝固。

山脚下的古崇正书院，白墙黛瓦，书香氤氲。下午的阳光正好，泮池里的小乌龟懒懒散散的晒着背，偶有几声鸟鸣，让人心神俱静。

离开了清凉山，顺着河海大学外墙，走虎踞路到北京西路再到莫干路，游荡在宁海路这一片民国古建筑群与街景中。

最后抓紧时间，我来到了坐落在在狮子山静海寺内的南京条约史料陈列馆。

狮子山上有江南四大楼的阅江楼，但实在是爬不动了，没能登楼远眺。否则一定可以领略长江第一矶“一江奔海万千里”的壮阔，感受到朱元璋与宋濂“两记呼楼六百年”的历史沧桑吧。

静海寺内“三宿崖”，它的名字来自南宋名臣虞允文。绍兴三十一年（1161 年），虞允文在采石矶大败金兵后，顺江而下途经建康（今南京），就在这处临江的岩下系船停留了三天，“三宿崖” 的名字由此而来

静海寺现如今是南京条约史料陈列馆。静海寺本身郑和下西洋的纪念地，后来成为《南京条约》议约的场所。三宿崖和它在一起，把南宋的抗金豪情、明代的航海壮举、近代的屈辱条约，都浓缩在了同一个院子里。

走进这座仿唐风格的建筑，沉重的历史感扑面而来。馆内的每一件文物、每一张照片，都在无声地控诉着那段屈辱的岁月。柱子上 “古寺历沧桑奇耻殊荣关国运” 的对联，字字千钧，提醒着我们勿忘国耻，吾辈自强。

回望这一天的行程，从六朝的金粉到近代的沧桑，南京就像一部厚重的史书，每一页都值得我们细细品读。

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CONNECT:[ UseTime:0.000766s ] mysql:host=127.0.0.1;port=3306;dbname=b460;charset=utf8mb4
SHOW FULL COLUMNS FROM `fenlei` [ RunTime:0.001124s ]
SELECT * FROM `fenlei` WHERE `fid` = 0 [ RunTime:0.001528s ]
SELECT * FROM `fenlei` WHERE `fid` = 63 [ RunTime:0.001220s ]
SHOW FULL COLUMNS FROM `set` [ RunTime:0.001345s ]
SELECT * FROM `set` [ RunTime:0.000641s ]
SHOW FULL COLUMNS FROM `article` [ RunTime:0.001550s ]
SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` = 589762 LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.002268s ]
UPDATE `article` SET `lasttime` = 1782280004 WHERE `id` = 589762 [ RunTime:0.002777s ]
SELECT * FROM `fenlei` WHERE `id` = 65 LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.000574s ]
SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 589762 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.001255s ]
SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` > 589762 ORDER BY `id` ASC LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.000840s ]
SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 589762 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 10 [ RunTime:0.002431s ]
SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 589762 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 10,10 [ RunTime:0.001367s ]
SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 589762 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 20,10 [ RunTime:0.002516s ]

0.201696s

ShowPageTrace