南京云锦织造技艺——寸锦寸金,天衣云锦

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     2025年，是公历平年，共365天，53周。农历乙巳年（蛇年，2025年01月29日～2026年02月16日），双春年，闰六月，共38南京云锦织造技艺是江苏省南京市的传统手工织造技艺，发端于东吴时期；东晋末年，刘裕将北方织锦百工迁至建康，为其发展奠定基础。元代，因蒙古族喜用织金，以织金夹银为特色的云锦脱颖而出，成为皇家御用贡品。明清时期技艺鼎盛，机户多达三万余台，南京成为全国丝织中心。

The Nanjing Cloud Brocade weaving technique is a traditional manual weaving craft in Nanjing, Jiangsu Province. It originated during the Eastern Wu period. In the late Eastern Jin Dynasty, Liu Yu moved the weaving artisans from the north to Jiankang, laying the foundation for its development. During the Yuan Dynasty, because the Mongols preferred to use brocade with gold thread, the cloud brocade with the characteristic of being made with gold thread interwoven with silver stood out and became the imperial tribute goods. During the Ming and Qing Dynasties, the technique was at its peak, with as many as over 30,000 looms. Nanjing became the national silk weaving center.

     该技艺以“通经断纬”为核心技术，使用大型花楼木织机，由拽花工与织手上下配合操作。其核心工艺“挑花结本”借鉴古老绳结记事原理，将图案与色彩转化为织手可读的程序语言。织造材料选用蚕丝线、黄金线及孔雀羽线等，代表品种包括“妆花”“织金”与“金宝地”。现存云锦图案涵盖龙凤、花卉及吉祥符号等元素，配色运用色晕与调和技法，使纹样层次分明、绚丽动人。

This technique is centered on the "thread threading and weft cutting" technology. It uses large loom wooden weaving machines and is operated by the weaver and the loom operator working together. Its core process, "thread picking and knotting", draws on the ancient principle of using knots for recording, converting the patterns and colors into a readable programming language for the weaver. The weaving materials include silk thread, gold thread, and peacock feather thread, among others. Representative varieties include "makeup brocade", "embroidered gold" and "golden treasure fabric". The existing patterns of Yunzhuo include elements such as dragons and phoenixes, flowers, and auspicious symbols, and the color application employs color diffusion and blending techniques, making the patterns distinct in layers and extremely beautiful and captivating.

     其完整工艺流程极为繁复精细，首先需将桑蚕丝等原料进行练染加工，并备好特制的金银线与孔雀羽；随后由匠师遵循“美、广、大”原则进行纹样设计，绘制出可精确到每一根丝的意匠图。核心环节“挑花结本”通过古老的结绳原理，将设计转化为由丝线编结而成的程序化“花本”。上机织造时，需在大型花楼木织机上完成复杂的装造工序，由拽花工在上依据花本提起经线，织工在下配合进行投梭、铲纹刀引入金线、过管挖花（即“通经断纬”）及打纬，两人上下协同，每日仅能织造寸许。这一系列严谨的工序，共同构成了云锦作为古代皇家御用织品的精湛技艺体系。

Its complete production process is extremely complex and meticulous. First, raw materials such as mulberry silk need to undergo dyeing and processing, and specially made gold and silver threads as well as peacock feathers need to be prepared. Then, the artisans follow the principles of "beauty, spaciousness, and grandeur" to design the patterns, drawing detailed designs that can be precisely executed down to each individual thread. The core process of "weaving patterns" uses the ancient principle of knotting to transform the design into a programmed "pattern base" made of silk threads. When weaving on a large loom, complex assembly procedures need to be completed on the wooden loom. The weaver on top raises the warp threads according to the pattern, while the weaver below cooperates by inserting shuttles, introducing gold threads with chisel-shaped tools, passing through pipes to carve the patterns (i.e., "passing the warp thread and cutting the weft thread") and weaving the weft. The two work together, and each day they can only weave a few inches. This series of rigorous procedures collectively constitute the exquisite craftsmanship system of Yunzhuang as an ancient royal imperial fabric.

     南京云锦织造技艺是人类非凡创造力的见证。如今，因灿若云霞而得名的南京云锦，依然作为中国传统织造技艺的经典，用于高端织物的织造，为民众所喜爱。

The weaving technique of Nanjing Cloud Brocade is a testament to the extraordinary creativity of mankind. Today, the Nanjing Cloud Brocade, renowned for its appearance resembling clouds, still serves as a classic of traditional Chinese weaving techniques and is used for the weaving of high-end fabrics, being loved by the public.

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