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南京美食街巷志——成贤街

  • 2026-05-09 15:55:09
南京美食街巷志——成贤街
成贤街的名字来自明朝。1382年，朱元璋在鸡笼山下建国子监，颜回字子渊，人称"成贤"，这条路就叫成贤街。六百多年以后，国子监变成了东南大学，学生换了一批又一批，街名没换。一条街，六百四十年的读书声，和每天中午十二点准时涌出来的饿肚子学生。
成贤街不长，从北京东路到珠江路，一公里都不到。这里没有特别网红的店，没有排长队的打卡点，有的是一批开了很多年、靠着东大口碑活下来的馆子。

印清菜馆

老店，开了二十多年，不是网红，就是一家在东大旁边活了很久的本地小馆。印清走的是淮扬底子的家常菜路线。红烧鱼、酸菜鱼都还不错，鱼肉新鲜；玉米烙嘎奔脆，口感好；腰花处理的还不错，配上韭菜增一分鲜美。但个人还是更喜欢爆炒向的腰花。人均三四十块，菜单随便点不容易踩雷。
不过需要说明：这不是那种吃完会发朋友圈的店。装修是普通小馆子的格局，服务也算不上周到。但在这条街上，它的意义更像一个坐标——从大二到毕业，从毕业到十年后回来，印清还在那，菜的味道没太大变化，这本身就是一种本事。

姐妹饭店

老店，同样也是开了很久的家常菜。菜品很丰富，吃过两次。味道还算比较扎实，两次吃下来出品也还算比较稳定。蒜香排骨不油、地锅鸡不咸、酸菜鱼不淡、鱼子鱼泡不腥，都能保障基础的品质。包菜算是素菜里的惊喜，够锅气；桂花山药做饭后甜点，不错。
当然情怀加分的成分也不是没有。这类开了很多年的学生餐馆，有些菜口味会漂移，有些菜的性价比不如刚开的时候高，但整体发挥还是比较稳定。

何记鱼馆

也是老店，和印清、姐妹距离很近。三家老店，彼此相邻，也做出不一样的味道。何记鱼馆做的也是鱼，但风格和口味有差别。烤鱼是招牌。活鱼现杀，现烤，鱼皮烤到微焦脆壳，鱼肉还是嫩的。汤汁偏甜酸口，不是重庆那种一路辣到底的做法，更像江苏人口味和川菜手法之间的一个折中。配菜丰富，翻着找东西吃的过程本身就是乐趣。酸菜鱼的鱼片滑嫩，酸菜的味道不抢鱼。小菜也不差。咸蛋黄豆腐、鲶鱼粉皮、玉米烙，都属于点了不后悔的类型。人均四十来块，在鱼馆这个品类里算厚道的。
何记在成贤街开了很多年，最早是东大学生的食堂外挂，后来慢慢积累了一批回头客，口碑传出去，不靠营销也活得稳当。

咖喱谷

成贤街上开了多年的一家咖喱简餐店，装修走小资路线，不大。咖喱给得很足。每份咖喱饭标配半个卤蛋和一碗例汤，把咖喱一勺一勺浇在饭上，味道真心不差，价格也实在。菜单不算丰富，咖喱和乌冬为主，口味偏向迎合本地食客的改良版本，性价比很高，作为成贤街上的工作日午饭选项，咖喱谷是个不错的答案。

方中山胡辣汤

歇业，仅存的一家店在汉中门大街。2024年初在珠江路开了南京第一家，门口曾经排过一条街的队。胡辣汤界的"网红连锁"，发源于河南逍遥镇附近，靠加盟扩张，全国开了很多家。方中山在河南本地的口碑并不算顶尖，河南人自己喝惯了老街的汤，不觉得连锁店有多了不起；倒是到了南京、上海这些城市，反而大排长龙。
胡辣汤本身是一碗真功夫的东西——用面筋、肉、木耳、黄花菜在高汤里慢慢炖，勾芡勾到半稠，最后泼上辣椒油，吃的是那口又辣又鲜又绵的劲。方中山的底子是有的，胡椒香、食材够，配油条或烧饼吃，就是一顿扎实的早饭。冷的时候喝一碗，暖和，人均十几块，便宜。刚开业时候排队很夸张，现在潮水退去也迎来闭店。

西安瓦罐面

老店。瓦罐面是陕西宝鸡一带的吃法——面条和臊子装进瓦罐里小火慢煨，汤汁收到稠烂，米面交融的质感和普通煮面完全不同。这家店挂着"西安"的旗号，但做的其实更接近宝鸡臊子面的路数。
瓦罐面是招牌，但不是全部。臊子面油润咸香，味道丰富；肉夹馍皮子烤得脆，肉汁渗出来，咬一口有扎实的陕西劲道；biangbiang面宽到像腰带，泼上辣椒油呛出香气，酸汤的版本酸辣开胃，是另一种节奏。这几样东西放在一起，算是把陕西面食的几条路线都搭了个架子。喜欢吃面食的可以来尝尝，面条出品都还是不错的。

市井川菜

市井川菜的总店。名字起得直白，装修也走市井路线，服务员还是比较热情。
当红辣子鸡是招牌，一大盘，辣椒里面藏着鸡丁，辣香酥脆，鸡肉不柴，花生米点缀，下饭。凉拌鲫鱼是另一道值得点的菜——鱼炸过之后浇上酸辣红油，鱼肉入味，这种吃法有川菜的泼辣劲头，是下酒的东西。回锅肉肥瘦相间，炒得很干香，但有人嫌油大；手撕包菜锅气足，适合爱吃蔬菜的人；蒜泥白肉分量偏少，靠红油酱汁撑，拌饭很香，但性价比不算高。
总体是一家出品稳定的平价川菜馆，吃饱没问题。别专程来打卡，但路过饿了，进去吃，不亏。
成贤街有两个身份，在同一段时间里叠加存在。白天它是东大的校园外延——学生用餐、取快递、买咖啡，梧桐树下走过的背包客和骑着电瓶车的外卖员，构成这条街的日常底色。但它本来的身份更老、更重：明代国子监旧址就在东大校园里，那块明代仅存的螭首石雕还在图书馆门口，1923年建的那座老图书馆还用着，民国教育部旧址的建筑群也完整保存着。成贤，是颜回的谥号，是古人对"仁德之人"的最高称谓。这条路的命名，是明朝人给后来者的一份期许。
下次来成贤街吃饭，可以趁着空隙多走两步，看看东大的老牌楼，摸摸那些被几百年时间磨光的石头——然后回去吃饭。吃本来就是读书人生活的一部分。古今同理，没什么特别的。
本文来自网友投稿或网络内容，如有侵犯您的权益请联系我们删除，联系邮箱：wyl860211@qq.com 。

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  1. CONNECT:[ UseTime:0.000421s ] mysql:host=127.0.0.1;port=3306;dbname=b460;charset=utf8mb4
  2. SHOW FULL COLUMNS FROM `fenlei` [ RunTime:0.000511s ]
  3. SELECT * FROM `fenlei` WHERE `fid` = 0 [ RunTime:0.000239s ]
  4. SELECT * FROM `fenlei` WHERE `fid` = 63 [ RunTime:0.000276s ]
  5. SHOW FULL COLUMNS FROM `set` [ RunTime:0.000482s ]
  6. SELECT * FROM `set` [ RunTime:0.000205s ]
  7. SHOW FULL COLUMNS FROM `article` [ RunTime:0.000571s ]
  8. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` = 546775 LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.001465s ]
  9. UPDATE `article` SET `lasttime` = 1778919132 WHERE `id` = 546775 [ RunTime:0.001277s ]
  10. SELECT * FROM `fenlei` WHERE `id` = 65 LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.001247s ]
  11. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 546775 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.000486s ]
  12. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` > 546775 ORDER BY `id` ASC LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.005402s ]
  13. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 546775 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 10 [ RunTime:0.010903s ]
  14. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 546775 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 10,10 [ RunTime:0.003061s ]
  15. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 546775 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 20,10 [ RunTime:0.000803s ]
0.095025s