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南京为什么是“鸭都”?

  • 2026-05-05 16:59:57
南京为什么是“鸭都”?
说起南京的吃，最绕不开的就是鸭子。南京人一年能吃掉上亿只鸭子，民间甚至有句玩笑话：没有一只鸭子能活着走出南京。不管是街头小吃还是请客吃饭，鸭子经常是主角。南京也因此得了个响当当的外号：鸭都。
南京人爱吃鸭，一来因为南京周围河湖多，水草丰富，养鸭条件好；二来南京夏天特别热，鸭肉性凉，不容易使人上火。吃鸭的历史其实很早，早在六朝时期（也就是东吴、东晋、宋、齐、梁、陈那会儿，差不多从三国到隋朝统一前），南京就已经有不少人养鸭、吃鸭了。到明清时候，南京的鸭菜更加出名，慢慢就成了这座城市的一张美食名片。
在南京所有的鸭制品里，我印象深刻的有：盐水鸭、鸭血粉丝汤，还有把盐水鸭做得特别香的那种时令桂花鸭。下面就跟大家聊聊它们的来历和做法。

盐水鸭

盐水鸭是南京鸭菜里的头牌，很多外地朋友来南京，第一件事就是买只盐水鸭带回去。它的特点是皮白、肉嫩、肥而不腻，吃起来咸淡合适，香味很足。
盐水鸭的历史可以追溯到很早，但真正出名是在明清以后。到了民国时期，人们发现八月桂花开的时候做的盐水鸭特别香，就给它取了个好听的名字：桂花鸭。其实桂花鸭和盐水鸭本质上是一回事，只是做得特别讲究的那批，被大家叫成了桂花鸭。
传统盐水鸭的做法简单来说就是：
  1. 先挑一只当年养的肥鸭，宰杀收拾干净，用清水泡掉血水，让鸭皮看起来白白的。
  2. 用炒热的粗盐加上花椒、八角等香料，均匀地擦在鸭子身上里外，腌一段时间。
  3. 再放到秘制的卤水里再浸一次，让味道进去得更均匀。
  4. 挂起来吹干表面的水。
  5. 最后用不太烫的水慢慢煮（不能大火猛煮），煮好后自然冷却。
这样做出来的盐水鸭，皮是白的，肉是嫩的，咬一口有汁水，骨头附近还有点淡淡的绿色，特别有特色。吃的时候直接斩块就行，配饭、送粥、下酒都好吃。

鸭血粉丝汤

如果盐水鸭是南京人招待客人的体面菜，鸭血粉丝汤就是每天早上最常见的市井味道。
早年间，南京街头卖的是鸭血汤，后来有人往里面加了粉丝，变成了现在的鸭血粉丝汤。在冬天，一碗热腾腾的鸭血粉丝汤下肚，整个人都暖和了。
正宗的鸭血粉丝汤，关键在汤底。要用鸭架、鸭骨头慢慢熬，熬出浓浓的鲜味。配料主要有鸭血、鸭肠、鸭肝、鸭胗（老南京叫鸭四件），再加上红薯粉丝、油豆腐泡等。吃的时候撒点葱花、香菜、胡椒粉，最后淋点鸭油或者辣油，那叫一个香。
南京的鸭血粉丝汤有清汤和白汤两种口味。清汤的比较清爽，白汤的更浓郁一些。大多数本地人早上会配一个烧饼或者油条，一碗汤一个烧饼，简单又满足。
现在鸭血粉丝汤已经火遍全国，很多城市都有南京风味的鸭血粉丝汤店，但真正好吃的，还是在南京本地。
这座城市经历了太多朝代更迭，文化特别包容，也特别会把普通的食材做出不一样的味道。鸭子全身都是宝：肉可以做盐水鸭，血和内脏可以做粉丝汤，鸭油还能做鸭油烧饼，鸭架用来熬汤……几乎没有浪费。
南京著名作家叶兆言，在作品中常以鸭菜作为南京饮食文化和时代变迁的象征。他曾在文章里回忆说，那时候南京街头到处是卖盐水鸭的，许多人一窝蜂地做这生意。他还记得小时候旁人做盐水鸭的模样，先把鸭子洗干净泡透，再用热盐和香料仔细腌制，煮熟后一定要等凉透了再切，吃起来味道才最好。
普普通通的一只鸭子，被他们吃出那么多花样，也吃出了生活里的烟火气。
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  1. CONNECT:[ UseTime:0.001116s ] mysql:host=127.0.0.1;port=3306;dbname=b460;charset=utf8mb4
  2. SHOW FULL COLUMNS FROM `fenlei` [ RunTime:0.001306s ]
  3. SELECT * FROM `fenlei` WHERE `fid` = 0 [ RunTime:0.001867s ]
  4. SELECT * FROM `fenlei` WHERE `fid` = 63 [ RunTime:0.000703s ]
  5. SHOW FULL COLUMNS FROM `set` [ RunTime:0.001315s ]
  6. SELECT * FROM `set` [ RunTime:0.002563s ]
  7. SHOW FULL COLUMNS FROM `article` [ RunTime:0.001448s ]
  8. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` = 553577 LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.000961s ]
  9. UPDATE `article` SET `lasttime` = 1778174355 WHERE `id` = 553577 [ RunTime:0.001379s ]
  10. SELECT * FROM `fenlei` WHERE `id` = 65 LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.000628s ]
  11. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 553577 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.002548s ]
  12. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` > 553577 ORDER BY `id` ASC LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.000953s ]
  13. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 553577 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 10 [ RunTime:0.006455s ]
  14. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 553577 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 10,10 [ RunTime:0.004877s ]
  15. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 553577 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 20,10 [ RunTime:0.005740s ]
0.214410s