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2010年代南京中山北路、人和街、水佐岗

  • 2026-05-29 17:23:26
2010年代南京中山北路、人和街、水佐岗
军人俱乐部是中山北路地标之一，其建筑乃民国遗物，而名称是解放初留下的。我2010年前后进去过一次，好像是去某部门办事儿。里面的布局类似学校，一条楼道贯通整个儿建筑，楼道两侧房间类似教室，门上有小窗。当时那建筑好像用作办公楼，级别不高，没有保安和门禁。我猜门前大水盆原来是喷泉，废弃好久了。
楼房身后有一院落，周围一圈儿商店，好像有图书一类的买卖。
南京街巷名称既富有历史感，又令人感到历史跟今天断裂，有些历史遗留的名称所指代的地方早已当然无存，例如康藏路、西康路。
从军人俱乐部往北一路都是商业街。上图镜头位置是中山北路跟山西路交界的拐角处。这张招牌拍摄于2015年左右，不知不觉已经是十年前了。
2010年前后，那个位置有一巨型百货店，名为苏宁乐购仕生活广场。他家底层卖手机，还有一家必胜客比萨饼店，乘滚梯上到二楼是卖各种家用电器的地方，五层和六层全是餐饮店。当年那个美食广场确实热闹，价格亲民，选择丰富，大部分店里坐着也舒服，适合聚会。
我去过他家五层一卖疙瘩汤的店铺，墙上挂一铭牌，详尽介绍店铺历史：
“话说明国年间，一位贫穷的寡妇带着两个嗷嗷待哺的小孩奔波在逃荒路上.......多年之后，母子三人虽然发家了，依然忘不了当年的味道，于是有了徐氏疙瘩汤，流传至今，美名远扬......” 
他家买卖始于明朝还是民国，不得而知。他就那么一说，你就那么一听，无人深究，毕竟疙瘩汤不是需要文化底蕴才能制作和品尝的吃食。我少年时代我妈有时候做疙瘩汤，因此应该是华北一带的烹饪方法。
南京的日常饮食可以说是兼容并蓄，各地风格五味杂陈。如果要品尝当地特色，最好去一家名为南京大排档的饭庄。
中山北路和山西路交界处有星巴克，咖啡始终比温哥华贵一个刀勒。
街对面的和平影院好像也有历史了，旁边好像是卖鞋的店铺。
那个十字路口往左转是山西路，往右转是湖南路，都是繁华的商业街。湖南路以美食一条街著称，店里人气旺，灯光璀璨，富有活力。春节期间路中央搭棚子摆摊儿卖各种小商品，夜晚尤其热闹。
湖南路步行街两边儿是上世纪七、八十年代建造的家属楼风格的红砖住宅，简朴到极致，如同火柴盒儿，充分体现了艰苦朴素的精神，在那个时代任何审美都属于剥削阶级的低级趣味。
从湖南路步行街往东走几步就到了玄武湖边，夏天夜晚湖边散步的人多。2018年我离开的时候儿，湖南路靠近中山北路地段正在修地铁站，马路都封起来了。八年过去了，现在地铁肯定早已通车了。
那十字路口儿还有一小公园，名为西流湾，旁边一条小巷也叫西流湾，是一条斜街，房屋具有浓厚的前朝风味，依稀记得里面曾经住过名人。我在公园一角看见聋哑人聚在一起，用手语无声地交谈。公园边上有青春剧场和肯德基。
沿中山北路继续往北，左手边有一小巷，名曰人和街，属于房地产起飞之后建造的小区，包括雅典花园、虎啸花园。
沿人和街往西，深入巷陌民居，有一老街名曰“四卫头”，两侧是上世纪七八十年代建造的火柴盒式住宅楼，底层小店卖山东抢面馒头、油条、豆腐脑、咸鸭蛋。
在我的印象中，居民区里几乎每条街上都有连锁经营的药店便利店。药店有不同流派，便利店仿佛都是苏果开的。便利店货架上有二锅头，红星和牛栏山的都有。
四卫头那条巷子里有一菜市，水泥砌的摊床干净整洁，里头卖的基围虾和罗氏虾活蹦乱跳，肌肉力量很足。
沿人和街向西是水佐岗，也是成片的居民区。2017年前后我经常汽车路过那里，从人和街经过水佐岗和模范马路前往察哈尔路，仅限于走马观花，并未仔细观瞧。
我在南京巷子里见过一种小时候从未见过的吃食-小龙虾，饭店里有这道菜，你也可以在街头摊位上买了带回家。我观看过有人在街头支起炉灶烹饪小龙虾，采用爆炒的方式，大量放蒜末，整瓶往里倒啤酒。听说北京簋街也有这个吃食，美其名曰麻辣小龙虾。我没有刻意品尝过这种特色食品，因为看上去挺麻烦的，要把可食部位吃到嘴里得费不少周折。
马路边和小区门口有制作烧饼的，俩人配合，一人制作面坯，另一人把面坯摆在汽油桶形状的烤炉里，烧饼为长方形，外焦里嫩，适合我的口味。 
上图是水佐岗十字路口。
新中国成立以后在民居方面的影响可分两个阶段，第一阶段是在九十年代之前以工厂机关为单位建造的职工和家属宿舍，2010年代水佐岗大多是这种房屋。
我曾经住过察哈尔路71号院儿和旁边的虎踞北路53号院儿，也属于这种原先的单位宿舍。房改之后变成商品房原来的住户有的搬走了，搬来的住户成分多元。
第二阶段是房地产腾飞之后，建筑开始有了设计感，楼房周围也有了刻意栽培的植被。
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  1. CONNECT:[ UseTime:0.000486s ] mysql:host=127.0.0.1;port=3306;dbname=b460;charset=utf8mb4
  2. SHOW FULL COLUMNS FROM `fenlei` [ RunTime:0.000682s ]
  3. SELECT * FROM `fenlei` WHERE `fid` = 0 [ RunTime:0.000298s ]
  4. SELECT * FROM `fenlei` WHERE `fid` = 63 [ RunTime:0.000292s ]
  5. SHOW FULL COLUMNS FROM `set` [ RunTime:0.000621s ]
  6. SELECT * FROM `set` [ RunTime:0.001172s ]
  7. SHOW FULL COLUMNS FROM `article` [ RunTime:0.000728s ]
  8. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` = 565981 LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.000464s ]
  9. UPDATE `article` SET `lasttime` = 1780352783 WHERE `id` = 565981 [ RunTime:0.001803s ]
  10. SELECT * FROM `fenlei` WHERE `id` = 65 LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.000286s ]
  11. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 565981 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.000632s ]
  12. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` > 565981 ORDER BY `id` ASC LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.003680s ]
  13. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 565981 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 10 [ RunTime:0.004879s ]
  14. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 565981 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 10,10 [ RunTime:0.000763s ]
  15. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 565981 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 20,10 [ RunTime:0.000936s ]
0.085465s