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南京美食街巷志—蓁巷

  • 2026-05-16 05:13:58
南京美食街巷志—蓁巷
蓁巷谐音"真香"。这条巷子只有四百五十米，北头是东南大学四牌楼校门，南头连着珠江路。一边居民楼，一边学生宿舍，东大学生管它叫"第二食堂"。去年，蓁巷做了城市微更新，换了新颜。但老店还在，味道没变。

宝鸡张记凉皮

东南大学南门，四牌楼不到三十平的小店，只有五张桌子。但就凭一碗凉皮，火了三十年。很多在东大读书的人，毕业十几年了还在念叨这一口。凉皮的口感确实跟别家有差异，但个人调味只能说是一般，点过三次都会有味道的不平衡，比如酸味过重。鱼香鸡蛋还不错，比单纯的卤蛋煎蛋味道层次更加丰富。

古的螺蛳粉

东南大学门口的螺蛳粉，收到很多东大朋友的力荐。抱着好奇来做了尝试，的确还是有道理的。汤底味道浓郁，酸笋的酸、螺蛳的鲜、辣椒的辣；米粉q弹，软而不烂，好入口，也入味。炸蛋也点了，但真的太油了，吃不消。单纯螺蛳粉就蛮好。

無法现烤三明治

名字有意思，做的就是现烤三明治。这边三明治有两家，另一家在隔壁。这种店在蓁巷的存在很合理——学生需要便宜、快、好吃的东西，三明治刚好满足。三明治现做现烤，面包外壳烤得金黄微脆，里面的馅料是热的，咬下一口很舒服。不算惊艳，但也不至于踩雷。

东北酱骨头馆

算是名气比较大的东北菜了。东北菜在南京的生存策略很简单：量大，便宜，实在。酱大骨是招牌，骨头上带着筋膜和肉，配蒜瓣吃，不能讲究斯文，两只手抓着啃，啃得满嘴油光，才对得起这东西。店里东北菜做的也还可以，点一盘酱骨头，配一凉一热两个菜，两个人够吃的饱饱的。

入夏苏式绿豆汤

街口小店，小小的店面，色调和搭配看起来很舒服。苏式绿豆汤是个很怪的东西，第一次喝的人会惊讶于它的口感。不是那种绿豆熬成沙的清汤。碗里飘着糯米、绿豆、蜜枣、冬瓜糖、红绿丝，泡在薄荷味的清凉水里。又甜又凉，又糯又脆，一口下去好几种口感打架。天热的时候来一碗，薄荷水沁到心里去，整个人就凉快了。除了绿豆汤，店里的铜锣烧做的也不错，外面的松饼奶香和蛋香交融，咬下去又有一种松软且绵密的感觉，红豆馅不甜，很新鲜，不错。算是南京阿式倒闭后的替代吧。

神都凉皮

网红店。"神都"是洛阳的古称。这家似乎老板洛阳人。在宝鸡张记凉皮附近又开一家凉皮店，还能开到现在，确实有两把刷子。神都凉皮走的是精致路线，店面很精致很好看，凉皮也做的很漂亮。凉皮宽、薄且韧，搭配爽口的黄瓜丝和香脆的花生米，一起泡在红油麻酱里，给人的视觉感官就很好。凉皮宽且薄更出味道，而且更易入口。晚上还会化身精酿馆，据说也是赫赫有名的精酿，感兴趣的也可以去试试。

将军巷大碗皮肚面

皮肚面是南京的面食代表。猪皮晒干油炸，膨松多孔，吸满了汤汁，吃起来既软又有嚼劲。一碗面里，皮肚、肉丝、猪肝、青菜、榨菜、木耳、面筋，七八样东西挤在一起，汤头滚烫。大碗皮肚面的做法是"小煮"——面条先煮至六成熟，捞起来和配菜一起在汤里煮。这和江南的"浇头面"不同。浇头面是面和菜分开，面在碗底，浇头码在上面。小煮面则是面和菜在锅里就混好了，端上来的时候已经你中有我、我中有你。这家味道还算可以，会偶尔吃；汤底鲜还是鲜，但不要喝太多，会咸。面碗也确实够大，南京大碗皮肚面的特色。

北京小炮儿炙子烤肉

以前看汪曾祺、梁实秋写到北平的炙子烤肉就直咽口水。路过时偶然发现就一直心心念念，前年终于去吃了一次。铁条编成的炙子架在炭火上，肉片铺上去，滋滋冒油，烟气混着肉香往上窜。羊肉烤得嫩，肥瘦相间，蘸上孜然和辣椒面，一口下去是北方那种粗犷的满足感。后来名气大了，吃要排很久的队，解馋了人也就变懒了。

啾包

蓁巷里最文艺的一家店。啾包是面包店，但又不仅仅是面包店。一楼卖面包，二楼有简餐，晚上能喝到半夜。海盐卷是招牌，确实做得好——外皮酥脆有麦香，内里柔软，咬下去能感觉到黄油的丰润和盐粒的微咸。要吃盐卷须早点来，下午很多时候就没货了。

老奶奶臭豆腐干

老店。从摊摊开到现在的店面，靠口味和手艺征服食客。臭豆腐干炸得恰到好处——不老不嫩，外皮酥脆，内里还带着一点豆腐的软。炸好之后先在卤水里浸一浸，再浇上甜酱和辣酱。一口下去，卤汁和酱汁混在一起，咸、甜、辣、香，层次分明。

孙婆婆饺子铺

现包水饺，似已歇业。从速食到堂食，响应东大学子煮饺子不便的诉求。孙婆婆的饺子特点就一个字：实。肉比菜多，皮不厚不薄，煮出来不会破也不会硬。有人说"肉比菜多"是夸奖——在饺子界，这确实是对手工饺子最高的评价。现包现煮，现煮现吃。这种店不需要太多技巧，需要的是态度。饺子这东西，好不好吃，一口就知道有没有用心。
蓁巷改造之后，多了一层文艺的面纱，东大的学生和社区居民一起搞更新。白天走在巷子里，咖啡香混着桂花香，看着一家家精致的店面，确实有些小资的味道。但转过身，酱骨头馆的油烟还在飘，臭豆腐干的油锅还在响。这些才是蓁巷的底色。
蓁巷这条巷子，东西多了反而乱。但乱有乱的好——不用做攻略，不用排队取号，走到哪吃到哪。蓁巷就是一个随遇而安的地方。
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  1. CONNECT:[ UseTime:0.000682s ] mysql:host=127.0.0.1;port=3306;dbname=b460;charset=utf8mb4
  2. SHOW FULL COLUMNS FROM `fenlei` [ RunTime:0.000952s ]
  3. SELECT * FROM `fenlei` WHERE `fid` = 0 [ RunTime:0.000351s ]
  4. SELECT * FROM `fenlei` WHERE `fid` = 63 [ RunTime:0.000282s ]
  5. SHOW FULL COLUMNS FROM `set` [ RunTime:0.000493s ]
  6. SELECT * FROM `set` [ RunTime:0.000229s ]
  7. SHOW FULL COLUMNS FROM `article` [ RunTime:0.000687s ]
  8. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` = 540526 LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.001072s ]
  9. UPDATE `article` SET `lasttime` = 1779439631 WHERE `id` = 540526 [ RunTime:0.002615s ]
  10. SELECT * FROM `fenlei` WHERE `id` = 65 LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.000267s ]
  11. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 540526 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.000473s ]
  12. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` > 540526 ORDER BY `id` ASC LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.000445s ]
  13. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 540526 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 10 [ RunTime:0.000813s ]
  14. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 540526 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 10,10 [ RunTime:0.000763s ]
  15. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 540526 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 20,10 [ RunTime:0.001197s ]
0.082563s