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南京皮肚面

  • 2026-02-19 18:13:10
南京皮肚面
出珠江路地铁口，不远处是拉贝旧居。抗战时期，民国首都的一个外侨居所，如今属于南京大学的一个侧门。外侨拉贝在这屋里写下《拉贝日记》，日记是写一段中国人被日本人欺辱的南京往事。
10月27日去参加了一个关于“档案标准体系”的会。走到这附近，被邀请转到水西门的南湖，约了碗皮肚面。
老南京的“皮肚面”，不仅是加点猪肉皮就是号称的样子。皮肚面确有公约良俗的“标准”！
1.猪皮是“沙爆”猪皮，做成“浮皮”。常人不懂“沙爆”与“浮皮”这两个名词。我以一个厨子的姿态，展开“说一下子”，这说一下子的语声，最好用南京方言行腔，外地人来南京吃这碗面时，需注意南京方言在面馆里的运用，适才会把美食与风俗结合，沟联上地方文化的“脉”，搭准足。所谓“沙爆”是用沙子作为导热介质，晾干透的猪肉皮，在温热的沙子里捂热变软，再转到火烫的沙子里爆，猪皮膨大成中空的“浮皮”，加在菜肴或面里，饱蘸浓汁，这是中国人的食物创造，在别出不曾见过。相传是客家人久远前的发明。
2.老卤：南京街头规矩的面馆，皆有味道独特的老卤，老卤汤普遍是酱色浓汤，最最崇尚的老卤，肯定不是一碗清澈见底、微黄泛油的鸡汤，而是必须“漆黑嘛糊”色泽的浓浆酱汤……非出自老卤肉的底汤不取，更有叫绝处，是谁家都互相捉摸不透的各家配料与工艺风格，就如戏里的生、旦、净、末、丑，虽然都叫“角色”，各有行腔，一家一种品格，但也泾渭分明，谁家以开水葱花猪油味精冲汤，属于严重违反南京社会“公约良俗。
3.配料：不是猪皮为原料的独角戏，我这碗就是水西门地区皮肚面TOP1的掌店招牌：“板筋皮肚”，也有皮肚与各式配的，不一而足。
4.“撒青”：这是苏州人教的，三两青蓄，一派生机。
5.“中粗”：这是面条在碗里的粗细规格，面粉的质和量构成的面条，有揉鸡蛋的，有高筋小宽的，有毛细的……花样繁多，你若遇到，我们再分头细说。
6.风情：这不是呆板的一碗面，而是万种风情融通荟聚的人情撷英，我到南京，总有人问：啊要吃碗面？这是种体己，是句不见外的温情，是质朴间不虚伪的邀，你请得起，我受得起，来而无往非礼也，下次人情往还，还得也就一碗面，平实又不失厚道！
7.“啊要辣油”：这是南京市井最风俗的问候，比北京人问“吃了吗？”更贴近距离，不是在饭桌上是问不出来的，只有来自同一个“饭圈”，才能有这关系“递进式”的问候，也许不真是饭桌上，只是邀你去皮肚面，顺了句“啊要辣油？”，这是推脱不了的人情真挚，价值观的探问和一致性的邀约。
南京，就是这样简单，深厚，有原则，不矫饰，柔情而不奢靡！
南京，悄声问，我爱你有多深，我爱你有几分……
感谢关注“见面桉源堂”公众号。
微信号：yj416008
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苏州吴州中西医结合医院正规收费 透明公开 患者信赖的诚信医院

舍弗勒招聘(苏州有岗)

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  1. CONNECT:[ UseTime:0.000446s ] mysql:host=127.0.0.1;port=3306;dbname=b460;charset=utf8mb4
  2. SHOW FULL COLUMNS FROM `fenlei` [ RunTime:0.000539s ]
  3. SELECT * FROM `fenlei` WHERE `fid` = 0 [ RunTime:0.000245s ]
  4. SELECT * FROM `fenlei` WHERE `fid` = 63 [ RunTime:0.000239s ]
  5. SHOW FULL COLUMNS FROM `set` [ RunTime:0.000486s ]
  6. SELECT * FROM `set` [ RunTime:0.000216s ]
  7. SHOW FULL COLUMNS FROM `article` [ RunTime:0.000589s ]
  8. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` = 467795 LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.001170s ]
  9. UPDATE `article` SET `lasttime` = 1771552318 WHERE `id` = 467795 [ RunTime:0.005573s ]
  10. SELECT * FROM `fenlei` WHERE `id` = 65 LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.003643s ]
  11. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 467795 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.000449s ]
  12. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` > 467795 ORDER BY `id` ASC LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.000446s ]
  13. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 467795 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 10 [ RunTime:0.001510s ]
  14. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 467795 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 10,10 [ RunTime:0.001558s ]
  15. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 467795 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 20,10 [ RunTime:0.000636s ]
0.086970s