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陈年味道,盐阜人在南京的乡愁|盐城菜12年老店

  • 2026-04-17 01:52:31
陈年味道,盐阜人在南京的乡愁|盐城菜12年老店
之前就关注过这家老板的自媒体，后厨展示和做菜教程的短视频都做得清清爽爽真真切切，感觉不错。加上一直对这种老板主厨出身，并且坚持在一线掌勺的店比较信得过，所以当阜宁籍友人邀约一起去这家尝尝他的家乡风味，我欣然雀跃。
青菜烧牛肉和萝卜丝籽乌，是我认知里比较有代表性的两个盐阜菜。用的是卤过的水牛肉，切成大片烩小青菜，牛肉香，青菜甜，汤汁浓郁，整体调味咸香带辣。萝卜丝的清甜和乌鱼仔的咸鲜互相衬托，加一撮白胡椒粉，汤色奶白又清爽，整体就是一个鲜字。
韭菜配鸡蛋不稀罕，韭菜配长鱼也不奇怪，韭菜鸡蛋长鱼汤，我还真是第一次见这种烧法。试一试不亏，毕竟是把各种极鲜的食材烩一块儿了，加上猪油菜籽油和鳝鱼骨汤的三重保驾护航，想不好吃都难。
盐城小呛蟹非常有特色，与同属生腌类型的宁波红膏蟹、潮汕生腌蟹相比各有妙处。盐城的蟹体型最小，肉质最紧凑，调味也最简单，强调下饭的适配性；宁波的选材最讲究，重心全在膏体上，观感浓艳隆重，口感扎实又粘牙，回味鲜甜，是季节性很强的鲜食佳品；潮汕则通过极短的腌制时间和丰富的腌料搭配，实现极致滑嫩的质和酸辣鲜香的味。相比之下，宁波的是正餐大菜，潮汕的是开胃前菜，盐城的更像下饭小菜。
看起来平平无奇的青椒炒百页得到满席盐城人的一致盛赞，皆因百页选得好：“是老家那个味儿”。所谓老家味儿就是指豆味浓郁，质地也较平常市面更密实一点，用豆油爆炒之后香气更甚。一问老板，果然材料是从盐城当地发过来的。推荐用这个季节的韭菜来炒也是极好的。
麻虾酱蒸蛋，之前在南通菜馆比较多的吃法是土馒头片蘸麻虾酱，蒸蛋我是第一次尝试。麻虾酱有鲜味没腥味，蒸出来确实比一般麻油蒸蛋要香。但是相比直接蘸取，风味还是淡了一点，再考虑到蒸蛋不像馒头，它本身的滋味也需要彰显，所以这个配比倒也合适。
其它菜式基本是淮扬菜系常见款，包括宁镇扬泰淮在内一带都是差不多的烧法。
比如鹅四宝，在这里是鹅肝、鹅肠、鹅胗并鹅翅集合的冷盘，跟扬州的盐水老鹅、南京六合的鹅四件做法和口感大同小异，都是盐水卤制，区别只在于具体的四项内容品种。又比如盐阜第一碗烩土膘，其实就是南京人再熟悉不过的六合头道菜，高汤烩的做法和主材皮肚都一样，区别是配料里多了一点地方特色，肉圆换鱼丸，咸货变河虾。
咸肉河蚌秧草汤和南京本地做法最大的不同是加了嫩豆腐。不知道盐城本地做法是不是都要加？但私以为还是不加更好：这是一道追鲜的汤水菜，咸货的陆上鲜，河蚌的水里鲜，加上一点应季鲜蔬的草本鲜，三鲜合一已到极致，这时候嫩豆腐的轻微豆腥味再加入进来，起不到点睛作用，反而有添乱之嫌。
像茶馓卷饼这种也是泛苏中苏北地区的常见菜，不同于发源地淮安对茶馓本身品质的强调，和扬泰地区对配料的讲究，盐阜大地显然更偏味重些，馓子更粗一点，酱料更咸甚至辣一点，酱里还会加上地域色彩鲜明的小虾皮。
整桌试下来，个人最喜欢的还是青菜烧牛肉和鮰鱼春笋。牛肉的咸鲜配青菜的甜糯，鮰鱼的肥嫩配春笋的脆嫩，都是相得益彰。
环境还算比较宽敞，装修和服务一般，从个别破损的餐具能看出来定位就是普通中餐馆。定价其实不低，上座率挺高，往来皆熟客，看来还是很得盐城人认可的。
店名：陈年味道
店址：南京市鼓楼区清凉门大街68号（近清凉门苏果超市）
交通建议：公交23、60、91、133、303、317路清凉门大街湛江路23站下，公交43、560路嫩江路北站下，地铁7号线清凉站2号口出
点击❤️收藏，下次去吃直接复制地址导航
我是大娴，关注我的公众号，一起娴话吃喝，分享这城市角角落落的好滋味。
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  1. CONNECT:[ UseTime:0.000509s ] mysql:host=127.0.0.1;port=3306;dbname=b460;charset=utf8mb4
  2. SHOW FULL COLUMNS FROM `fenlei` [ RunTime:0.000667s ]
  3. SELECT * FROM `fenlei` WHERE `fid` = 0 [ RunTime:0.000307s ]
  4. SELECT * FROM `fenlei` WHERE `fid` = 63 [ RunTime:0.000428s ]
  5. SHOW FULL COLUMNS FROM `set` [ RunTime:0.000587s ]
  6. SELECT * FROM `set` [ RunTime:0.004328s ]
  7. SHOW FULL COLUMNS FROM `article` [ RunTime:0.000733s ]
  8. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` = 534419 LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.001159s ]
  9. UPDATE `article` SET `lasttime` = 1776740335 WHERE `id` = 534419 [ RunTime:0.008213s ]
  10. SELECT * FROM `fenlei` WHERE `id` = 65 LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.000354s ]
  11. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 534419 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.000569s ]
  12. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` > 534419 ORDER BY `id` ASC LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.000396s ]
  13. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 534419 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 10 [ RunTime:0.000928s ]
  14. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 534419 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 10,10 [ RunTime:0.001023s ]
  15. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 534419 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 20,10 [ RunTime:0.007050s ]
0.138926s