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行旅记·南京三月三 |篇外四:雪琴小馆

  • 2026-05-06 06:54:28
行旅记·南京三月三 |篇外四:雪琴小馆
      老门东里，评分不算低的小菜馆。不吃饭，也可以单独吃面，喝茶，甜品。只要你走进来，什么都有可能。
      金陵烤鸭。南京盐水鸭吃得多，烤鸭就未必。一样烤得外焦里嫩，皮脆肉软，调以微微咸甜的卤汁，还是很有味的。烤鸭摆盘吃法，与北京不一样，与粤式烤鸭也不一样。我以为不宜以自己习惯的来比。大概意思，祖国那么大，哪个地方都有自己的烹饪之作，都为特色，凭习惯和经验出发，以之为标准，固守一成之间，不是开放包容的态度。或说，在美食之路上，我愿不断尝新。
      烤鸭按份38元，有鸭腿及前屉，部位好，斫之精细，味道亦佳，若往常觉得不贵。可满大街100元四只盐水鸭，大小商店，几乎家家都有，便又觉得这份烤鸭也不便宜。南京食鸭太猛，感觉是把鸭子当零食，量大也就便宜。广西人说七月十四没有一只鸭子能活着离开广西，那么南京人大概会说，他们天天都是广西的七月十四。
      金陵双臭豆腐煲。大肠为什么列为臭之一，不大明白，北京炒肝里的大肠亦如，大概是处理上方法不同，或者口味需要这般臭。做个打自己嘴巴的比较，柳州酸菜、泡椒炒大肠不臭阿，而且邦邦脆，有嚼头。这个煲的大肠是煮，绵烂，是有那么些味道。另一臭是臭豆腐，大肠和臭豆腐同煲，刚端上来，初吃几块，有点儿臭，再吃，习惯了，便不觉臭了。汤底垫有金针菇，吸了味道，也是那么点臭味。闻着臭吃着香，是嗅觉与味觉的分垒，大凡臭类食物，都是如此炮制。
      雪琴素什锦。就是各种蔬菜焯水，各种素食，各种颜色，什锦之意。少许盐和香麻油凉拌，清淡脆口，凉菜一类。
      蒜苔豆瓣炒酱肉。淮扬菜喜用蚕豆，春天蚕豆新鲜柔嫩，绵绵口感，烧炒烹煮，无所不用。蒜苔及新鲜豆瓣俱青翠，配腊肉正好，饮食审美还是有共同之处，酱肉就是本地腊肉，已经泡开，软而不咸，便可厚切。与西南版本的蒜苔炒腊肉，是不同的风格。
      十年陈皮红豆沙。红豆沙里有糯米圆子，面撒桂花，有香，陈皮味却不浓。像岭南甜品，多了小圆子。这种粤式甜点，还是岭南派做得地道些。
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  1. CONNECT:[ UseTime:0.000638s ] mysql:host=127.0.0.1;port=3306;dbname=b460;charset=utf8mb4
  2. SHOW FULL COLUMNS FROM `fenlei` [ RunTime:0.000770s ]
  3. SELECT * FROM `fenlei` WHERE `fid` = 0 [ RunTime:0.000269s ]
  4. SELECT * FROM `fenlei` WHERE `fid` = 63 [ RunTime:0.000266s ]
  5. SHOW FULL COLUMNS FROM `set` [ RunTime:0.000646s ]
  6. SELECT * FROM `set` [ RunTime:0.000222s ]
  7. SHOW FULL COLUMNS FROM `article` [ RunTime:0.000561s ]
  8. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` = 553866 LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.001041s ]
  9. UPDATE `article` SET `lasttime` = 1778143785 WHERE `id` = 553866 [ RunTime:0.000835s ]
  10. SELECT * FROM `fenlei` WHERE `id` = 65 LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.000316s ]
  11. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 553866 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.000640s ]
  12. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` > 553866 ORDER BY `id` ASC LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.000540s ]
  13. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 553866 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 10 [ RunTime:0.001111s ]
  14. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 553866 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 10,10 [ RunTime:0.002523s ]
  15. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 553866 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 20,10 [ RunTime:0.007079s ]
0.089790s